How It Works & FAQ

This deserves a completely straight answer: grading companies classify restored cards as "altered."If a grader detects restoration work, the card will receive an "Altered" or "Evidence of Restoration" designation rather than a numeric grade. Restoration is the right choice for cards you want to looktheir best — display pieces, personal collections, childhood favorites — not for cards whose value depends on a clean numeric grade. If your plan is to grade and sell, say so in the application and we'll talk honestly about whether restoration makes sense for your situation.

Restoring your own card is completely legal — it's your property, and conservation of collectibles (art, comics, coins, cards) is a long-standing practice. The ethics come down to disclosure: a restored card should always be described as restored if it's ever sold. That's why every assessment is upfront about what "restored" means, and why selling a restored card as unaltered is something this shop will never help with.

Starting prices for every service are on the pricing page— cleaning starts at $10, crease repair at $80, a full restoration at $150. What your card actually costs depends on the damage: a single corner lift is a very different job from a creased, dirty vintage holo needing full treatment. That's what the free assessment is for — you'll get a specific quote before committing to anything.

Assessments usually come back within 1–2 business days. Restoration time varies with the work needed and the current queue — your quote will include a time estimate. The priority is always doing the job right, not doing it fast; some repairs need time between stages to set properly.

You'll get exact shipping instructions (penny sleeve, top-loader or card saver, rigid mailer, tracked service) so the card travels safely both ways. On arrival it's photographed and documented, so its exact received condition is on record. During the work, only the areas being treated are handled, and high-value cards are stored protected between sessions. Whatever your card is worth, always insure the package you send for its full value — the insured amount is what you can recover if the carrier loses or damages it.

No — and anyone who tells you otherwise should worry you. Some damage can be made to essentially disappear (lifted corners, bends, surface grime). Some can be dramatically improved but not erased (hard creases, deep scratches). And occasionally the honest answer is that the risk of working on a card outweighs the benefit. You'll always get that honest answer before any money changes hands. See the Damage Guidefor what's typical per damage type.

Pokémon is the specialty, but the materials and techniques apply to most trading cards — sports cards, Magic: The Gathering, Yu-Gi-Oh! and other TCGs. Submit it through the application and it'll be assessed the same way.

Check the Damage Guide— it covers each type with plain-language descriptions. Still not sure? Pick "Other" in the application and describe it in your own words. Good photos matter far more than the right terminology.

The application and assessment are completely free. Payment terms are agreed as part of your quote, before you ship anything — you'll never be surprised by a charge.